September 2005 - CHAIN MAINTENANCE SECRETS REVEALED
By Jim Donovan, Max-Torque Ltd.

Editor note: Of all the articles written for FUN TIMES, this is the most requested for re-printing  It  was originally published on 10/01/00.

This article is to inform and educate drivers on what can be done to maximize chain performance. Although designed primarily for kart racers, the information will help owners of all types of karts as well. And remember: most of the problems experienced with chains can be minimized with proper planning. 

There are two types of #35 chain (3/8” pitch - center distance between pins). One style of #35 chain is the standard fun kart or mini bike chain that is smaller in width (the link plates butt right against the roller links). Standard #35 chain does not have much side load flexibility compared to the other type of #35 chain, known as “space chain” which is what the majority of racers use on their karts. Besides the side load flexibility of space chain, which is more forgiving of sprocket misalignment, the other advantage is the gap or “space” between the inside roller link plates and the outside pin link plates. This makes it easier to get lubrication to the connecting pin that joins two rollers together. Getting the lubrication between the roller and the pin is the secret on how to correctly lubricate the chain. This also applies to .219 chain which is mainly used in Europe and elsewhere. 

Note: #35 chain, either standard or space, is not a true roller chain because the pin does not roll. You only get into roller chain when you move up to half-inch pitch chain (#41 or #40) or larger. 

HOW TO GET YOUR CHAIN RACE-READY
Any chain manufacturer will tell you the weakest link on the chain is the master link. I strongly recommend using only a continuous link chain because master links always seem to fail at the worst time. 

To lubricate your chain, first take it off of the kart and clean it thoroughly with an air hose. Gasoline or a solvent will definitely clean the chain, but it cause it to dry out and remove the grease that the chain was originally packed in. Then put your chain in an old coffee can with about 2 inches of #30 weight automotive oil and a bar of bees wax or paraffin wax. (Paraffin is usually available at a hardware or grocery store. It is used to seal bottles used in canning). Then put the can with the chain, oil and wax on your stove, electric warming plate, crock pot or old electric frying pan and heat to 180 degrees for about 30 minutes. DO NOT BRING THE WAX/OIL MIXTURE TO A BOIL because you do not want to break down the oil, you just want to get maximum penetration. 

Why heat? Because heat is what is used to impregnate a bushing, the only difference being that it is done under vacuum, which sucks out all the air. The heat will cause the air to come to the surface of he oil. The void around the pin and the roller link will be replaced by oil. The wax/paraffin acts like a sealer to keep oil in.

After 30 minutes in the hot solution, remove the chain and hang it over the can so the excess can drip off. Before re-mounting the chain back onto the kart, pull the chain through a rag to remove any excess oil and wax from the outside of the chain. Note: If your clutch has a removable sprocket, detach it, wipe it clean and place it in the same oil/wax solution at the same time you soak your chain. This will replenish the oil in the bushing and you will get many more races from the sprocket before you have to go through the process again. 

Storage

If not immediately putting the chain/sprocket back on your kart, store the cleaned and lubricated chains and/or sprockets in a plastic bag so they won’t get dirty but more important - you don’t want them toughing any type of cardboard or paper as it will act as a wick and dry out the lubrication.

TRACKSIDE
If you have to oil the chain at the track, wait until you have warmed up the chain by driving around for a few minutes. Some lubricant may penetrate around the roller pin, but it will be minimal. Wipe the excess oil off because it doesn’t do anything accept foul up the clutch, your clothes and your kart. 

The only lubrication I like to use at the track is WD-40 because it burns off easily with doing any damage. It is a lubricant as well as a cleaner but it will burn off at a very low temperature. The types of oils you don’t want to use on your chain or clutch bushing are: Slick-50, Dynamite, Energy Release or any synthetic oil that contains Teflon or silicone. These are all excellent internal oils but can damage or destroy your clutch or brake disc if any gets on them. Once it gets on the steel, it will work itself into the metal and come to the surface when the steel get hot. These lubricants do just what they are intended to do -prevent friction. But you need friction during the engagement process for your clutch or brakes to work properly.

The inside of the clutch, when the engine is idling, acts like a fan drawing air around the drum to keep the shows or discs cool. Any excess lubrication on the chain is going to be sucked into the clutch. It will get on the shoes and will have to be burnt off before the clutch will work consistently again. In addition, check your blow-by line off the engine to make sure you have a good seal. It is very important to have the line hooked up properly to your oil catch tank because of where that oil can go and the problems it can cause.

OTHER TIPS
How often should you lubricate a chain? It depends on track conditions. A dusty track where you are getting a substantial amount of dirt or clay on your chain and sprockets, I recommend weekly maintenance. Also, if you power wash your kart, I would definitely recommend going through the aforementioned process every time you wash the kart.

Chain life can be shortened depending on how you drive. If you spin out and go in reverse, I recommend tossing the chain. Why? Because, when a kart is going forward and you spin out and go in the opposite direction, a tremendous amount of stress has been placed on the chain. Most likely, several links have been stretched and this weakens the chain. This will cause it to try to jump a tooth when you spin the rear axle when the kart is on a kart stand. A bad chain can also wear both the clutch sprocket and the rear gear excessively in a relatively short period of time. 

Remember, chain does stretch, but if you are going in one direction it is doing it evenly and you can be lucky and get a whole season out of it. But be sure to check the chain each time you go out for stretching and wear. If you notice excessive stretching, replace the chain immediately. Note: #35 chain can stretch nearly ½ the length of a link, which is considerable. One thing for sure, no matter what, I would definitely recommend putting on a new piece of chain at the beginning of a new season.

When assembling a new continuous piece of chain, I like to mark the link I press the chain apart at with some “typewriter whiteout”. This lets me know where I can begin looking for problems such as link binding. Sometimes when re-assembling the chain, too much pressure might be applied on the pin causing the chain to bind at that point. Simply go back to the marked position and re-do the assembly process. It is easier to double check yourself on a kart stand thus avoiding pushing your kart back from the far turn of then track after the chain breaks. 

Most chain problems can be avoided with proper planning and maintenance. Take the time to do it correctly the first time, every time and you’ll should get a longer life from the chain, clutch and sprockets. 

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Jim Donovan, is the owner of Max-Torque Ltd., Naperville, Illinois. He can be reached at Phone: 630-369-9600. E-mail: info@maxtorque.com. Web: www.maxtorque.com.

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