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2001 FUN TIMES #7

FUN KART SAFETY AND MAINTENANCE

A fun kart can be fun and safe for a long time if you take time to know and understand the vehicle. Here are a few tips. (Note: these are general maintenance tips. Always check the owners manual for specific maintenance guidelines.)

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS

a. BEFORE STARTING YOUR KART – Read the engine manual and understand the proper engine care.
b. Check brakes for proper adjustment
c. Set proper tire pressure
d. Check engine oil level
e. Check chain tension
f. Test throttle linkage

DO NOT:
a. Operate a kart on any public road, street, highway, sidewalk, or alley.
b. Use a fun kart for competition or commercial use
c. Start the vehicle without someone in the seat
d. Operate a kart without a approved helmet and face shield
e. Operate a kart with a passenger unless designed for one
f. Race, jump, perform “stunt” riding, or doughnuts
g. Allow anyone under 18-years of age to operate a kart without constant adult supervision
h. Allow anyone to operate a kart who is not of sufficient age, understanding, mental capacity and physical capacity to safely operate a kart.
i. Operate a kart with long hair exposed or loose clothing than could get cought in moving parts.

SPECIFIC RECOMMENDATIONS

SAFE STARTING - It is best to have the driver sitting in the kart while someone else starts the engine. If this isn’t possible, please the front of the kart against something stationary, such as a tree or building while starting. If there is trouble, the kart would not be able to travel before the engine could be shut off! Only properly instructed drivers should operate a go-kart. Be sure the driver can reach the throttle and brake pedal easily and understands how to use the kill switch.

PROTECTIVE WEAR - Always wear protective clothing and a helmet. Long hair should be pinned and tucked under the helmet. Loose clothing, such as scarves and pull strings on jackets or sweatshirts should not be worn at all.

BRAKE - Be sure the brakes work properly with no loose bolts or missing cotter pins. Lightly oil (with 3-in-1 oil or WD-40) all pivot points such as on the pedal and the return spring. This should insure free travel. Check brake pad for wear. If pads are worn, adjustment may be necessary or pads should be replaced. The disc/rotor should be clean, free of oil. If oily, clean with alcohol only. The disc or rotor should be free to travel on the axle. Enough pad gap is necessary to insure the free movement of the disc/rotor when the brake is in the neutral position. On mechanical disc brakes, pad gap can be adjusted by tightening the bolt on the side of the caliper casting.

THROTTLE – Check linkage from pedal to engine. All parts must travel freely. Lightly oil the pedal pivot points and return spring to help insure free travel. Do not lubricate the cable traveling through the housing. If the cable doesn’t travel free in the housing cleaning may be necessary. Remove the cable and wipe any dirt or foreign material from the cable. Using compressed air, blow inside hosing, to clean. Slide the cable back into the housing. If the cable still isn’t free, check for tight bends in the housing. Throttle travel may be adjusted at the cable adapter on the end of the throttle rod.

STEERING- All bolts must be tight for a minimum amount of play. Use light oil on tie rod ends and steering shaft bushings every 5 hours of use. Spindles that are equipped with grease fittings can be lubricated using a grease gun. If there are no grease fittings, remove the kingpin and pack with grease every 20 hours of use. Front wheel alignment should be straight ahead to 1/8"”toe in. Check by measuring front inside of the rim to rim, then measure rear inside rim to rim. Adjustment can be made by removing the bolt from the pitman arm and threading the tie rod in or out as necessary. NOTE: All tie rods should have the same amount of threads into the rod ends. If tie rods are bent, they should be replaced immediately.

SPROCKET ALIGNMENT – This is check by placing a straight edge (ruler) along side of the axle sprocket to the same side of the clutch or Torque Converter sprocket. Adjust if necessary.

CHAIN – The chain should be lubricated every 2 hours of use. Use chain lubricant.

WHEELS – Front wheel bearing are sealed and do not require lubrication. A live axle kart will have the rear wheels keyed to the axle and do not have bearing. The real axle bearings are sealed and do not require lubrication. A dead axle or one-wheel drive kart, the rear wheel bearing will be sealed and do not require lubrication.

TIRE PRESSURE – 11x4.00 – 5” tires = 20 PSI; 15x6.00 – 6” tires = 12 PSI; 18x12.00 – 8” tires = 8 PSI

CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCH – Oil the bushing ever 2 hours of use. DO NOT oil the shoes or inside the clutch drum. If the crankshaft of the engine is equipped with a grease fitting, grease every two hours.

TORQUE CONVERTER MAINTENANCE

DRIVER UNIT – Normal maintenance is just keeping the unit clean and lubricated with a dry lubricant such as COMET GP730A. This would mean periodically disassembling the drive clutch, cleaning any dirt or belt dust out of it and spraying the sides of the weights and mating cover and sheave and re-assembling the unit.

DRIVEN OR SECONDARY UNIT – The driven unit should be checked periodically for dirt and wear. Clean the driven at the same time the driver is being cleaned and spray with COMET-brand dry lube in the busing area. This can be done by removing the belt and rotating the moveable sheave and pulling it open. The driven unit can then be cleaned with a dry rag. The best way to then spray lube is to allow the driven unit to close back up and spray the busing through the spring area.

The most common torque converter problems are caused by the following conditions:
1. Improper alignment of the torque converter (TC) system and/or improper belt tension.
2. Pushing the vehicle backward with the TC fully engaged.
3. Jumping the vehicle while going uphill (when the vehicle land, it moves backward with the TC fully engaged.
4. TC installed backwards.
5. Getting the belt wet when it is hot such as driving through deep water or having water splash on a hot belt.

Solutions for the above conditions:
1. Check the TC system for alignment. The TC system should be mounted on parallel shafts. When the TC system is in neutral or idle, the belt should be straight in the sheaves. When the belt is straight, it should also be square to the engine crankshaft and the jackshaft. The TC drive unit must NOT float on the engine crankshaft
2/3. Both of these conditions can be corrected by simply not moving the vehicle
backwards while the TC system is fully engaged.
4. Know your TC system. Be sure the driven portion is installed properly.
5. Keep the belt dry when using.

Proper maintenance of the TC system is important. Missing or worn cam buttons can cause the cam to override the buttons and unwrap the spring.

Courtesy: Bob’s Kart Shop, Sheridan, Illinois

END

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Post Office Box 101
Wheaton, IL 60189 USA
Telephone: 630-653-7368
Fax: 630-653-2637
Email: karting@msn.com

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