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THE RACERS EDGE

‘CAVEAT EMPTOR’ – or BUYER BEWARE

Not that we’re trying to scare anyone away from buying a used kart, but simply alerting you to the facts that you should know what you’re looking for before you make that final decision.

For a newcomer to the sport, it is easy to see how someone could get stuck with something that might be better suited as a wall hanging than a competitive racing machine. Most of us buy on looks and not common sense. But then again, if you don’t know what you’re looking or, how can you make an intelligent decision?

Okay, you’ve decided you’d like to get involved in kart racing, now what do you do? First thing would be to decide which form of racing you would prefer.

There are four divisions within kart racing — all will require a specific type of kart. You can however, modify a kart to run in three of the four types, but if you intend to run one particular type, it would be more economical to buy a kart designed to run on that type of surface or track.

The four divisions I just mentioned are Sprint, Speedway, Shifter (karts w/motorcycle engines) and Road Racing (more commonly known as Enduro racing).

The differences are that sprint races (and Shifter) are held on asphalt tracks with both left and right hand turns and are generally one quarter-mile to a half-mile in length. Speedway racing is run on either asphalt or dirt/clay ovals one eight to one quarter-mile in length.

Enduro racing is run on the larger tracks such as Daytona or Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course and use slightly different karts. Those karts have a longer wheelbase and require the driver to lay prone in the kart for better aerodynamics.

Another point to consider is the option of engine classes. There are really only two possibilities here: 2-cycle or 4-cycle. The 2-cycle engine is more powerful, thus faster, while the 4-cycle engine is the 5-HP Briggs & Stratton engine most commonly found on lawnmowers and mini-bikes, but with a few subtle differences to boost horsepower and reliability under racing conditions. The decision on which type of engine you need basically comes down to how fast do you want to go?

The 4-cycle stock classes will run from 25-MPH for the rookies to over 55-MPH for the seniors – a used engine will cost around $300+ for a “prepared” engine. The 2-cycles however, will range from 50-MPH to 125-MPH – one the average will cost around $500 to $1000 for a used engine.

As for the ages of these classes, anyone from 5 or 6 and up can compete. The beginner classes are designed for youngsters from age 5/6 using a tiny 2-cycle. Other junior classes from age 8 to 12 can use a restricted Briggs 4-cycle or Yamaha 2-cycle.

For Ages of 13-years old and up, the choice of either 2 or 4-cycle is up to you. The average age of drivers competing today is around 28-years old.

Both engine styles have their own merit, but one determining factor will probably be what your local track races. You wouldn’t want to buy a particular type of 2-cycle engine and find that your local track doesn’t have a class for you to run.

Unless you’re planning on traveling wherever necessary to race, I would suggest locating the nearest kart club and attend their monthly meetings or one of their races (before you buy anything). You will then be able to ask questions concerning the type pf classes they run while getting valuable information on what everyone thinks the best set-up is for their track.

Just about every track will have someone who has a kart shop or supplies that track with parts. So unless you have the racing knowledge of Tony Stewart, it would be wise to find a track that had the support of a shop, as you will soon have the phone number etched in your memory bank.

Once you have found the track you plan on attending, and have decided which engine you’d like to run, you can start looking for that chassis that’s going to carry you across the line ahead of your competition.

In this article, we will be reviewing the sprint chassis (Sprint, Speedway and Shifter all use virtually the same type chassis), as it is the most common style raced today.

Sprint karts are designed in the three different styles as mentioned above. The primary differences are their flexibility. Asphalt karts come in both flexible and firm configurations, while dirt Speedway karts are generally more flexible (as the conditions of a dirt/clay course are ever changing).

One way of determining the flexibility of a chassis is by measuring the “center bay” of the kart. This area is located directly below the knees if you were sitting in the kart. A flexible chassis will measure between 10”-15” across, but this will also be determined by the tubing material used.

Don’t be too concerned about the type of material used in the construction of the chassis, as most beginners, as well as most of the general racing population, cannot tell the difference between the two main types of chassis materials — Chrome Moly and mild steel.

In the beginning, most of us aren’t sure which type of racing we are going to prefer, so I wouldn’t be too concerned about looking for a chassis that has more “flex” than the next, as you’ll probably want to race on a number of different surfaces and track configurations before settling on one particular track to run on. As I mentioned earlier, one chassis “can” be adapted to run on all types of surfaced (although some more successfully than others).

If you located a kart you think might be for you, let’s go through some things to look for. You can generally tell a lot about the person selling the kart and the overall care of his equipment by its appearance… the kart’s, not the seller.

The first thing is to check it the straightness. Check all welds and stress areas for signs of cracks or chipping/flaking paint. With the kart on the ground, rotate the steering wheel in both directions, lock to lock. If either of the front tires comes up off the ground more than the other one, there’s a good chance the frame has been bent. Make sure each tire is inflated properly, as this will have an effect on the amount of lift the front tires have.

The chassis can easily be re-straightened, but once this has been done, the chassis has lost some of what it has been designed to do. But again, the average driver probably couldn’t tell the difference.

Next, let’s put the kart up on a kart stand for easier inspection. Check the front spindles and bearing by rocking the front wheel from top to bottom. There will be some play, but it shouldn’t be excessive. If there is too much play, the wheel hubs might need to be replaced or there might be too much wear in the king-pin (the bolt that holds the spindle in place). If that’s the case, the spindle should be replaced.

After that, grasp one of the tie-rods and rotate it between your fingers. It should rotate easily, with no harsh friction. It also shouldn’t be sloppy or have any bends in the rod itself. Check the rod ends (Heim joints) located at the ends of the tie rods for wear. If they are extremely sloppy, it will be hard to hold or adjust the toe-in or toe-out of the front end. It could also be dangerous. These are not an expensive item, so check and replace them whenever necessary.

After checking all the front end components, move to the rear of the kart. The axle should rotate cleanly and easily. If the axle does not move smoothly, check the bearings being sure that are rotating easily. Then check the brake rotor making sure the rotor is not rubbing on the brake pads.

While you’re spinning the axle, sight down the brake rotor checking for trueness. If the rotor rubs the pads, the rotor might need to be machined/replaced or the pads might be misaligned.

Depress the brake pedal and view the action of the brake pads. Each pad should move at or about the same distance. Also look for bubbles or leaks in the hydraulic system.

Let’s move back to the front of the kart and take a look at the front tires. Are there any wear patterns showing? If the inside of the tire is wearing more than the outside, or vice-versa, the front alignment is off or the chassis is either “sprung” or set-up that way by the previous owner for some reason or another.

Also check the wheels. These can easily become bent by a close encounter with a curb or by someone trying to change a tire with a screwdriver. Wheels come in two different types—one and two piece models. The two piece types are by far better for the beginner as you will undoubtedly come in contact with something and buying a half of a rim is cheaper than buying two!

While we’re on the subject of wheels, we may as well talk about what goes on them — Tires. There are a number of tire manufacturers supplying tire to the karting industry. A few of the more popular brands are Burris, Bridgestone, Dunlop, Maxxis, MG and Vega. These tires come in various compounds and tread patterns.

Slick tires are used in both asphalt and speedway racing as well as on some dirt/clay tracks. Grooved tires are used on dirt and rain racing only, and will not last very long on an asphalt surface.

If you’re looking to keep the cost down, consider choosing an “SL” type of tire. These tires generally will give you good all around performance, while lasting a great deal longer than a softer compound tire.

Well, if you’ve gotten this far, you must be fairly interested. The next step, if possible, is to take it for a test drive, preferably on the track you intend to race.

Sometimes, this is not always possible, especially if the kart you’re looking at is at the seller’s house or shop or at a swap meet. But, if he/she’s a regular racer, he/she might bring it to the track some race day for you. This is the best way since you can get his/her years of experience on how to operate and adjust the chassis to fit your needs.

Now comes the time to dig out the old checkbook and settle up. A good used chassis will sell for anywhere from $350 to $1000. To help give you a comparison to what a new chassis cost, try from $2700 to $4000 and that for a roller (everything less engine). Engines, as we spoke of earlier can range from $600 to several thousand.

Generally, you will be able to find a seller that is interested in selling the entire package of engine and chassis. In this case, you can feel secure knowing that the engine is meant for that chassis and the set-up has been adjusted, at least to his liking. If that is the way you choose to go, a good used sprint chassis and engine combination that is no more than three years old can be found for anywhere between $1000 and $2500 – A shifter set-up will, of course, be more expensive.

If we haven’t lost you yet, and you’re still interested in buying that kart, ask the seller if he/she will be available to answer any questions concerning the set-up and maintenance of the kart you are about to fork over your hard earned cash for. I believe this to be the most important part of the sale. If he is not interested in helping you get started on the right foot, pass it up. There will be plenty of others.

If, in fact, you’ve haven’t found a used chassis and would like to get more information, contact you’re local kart club and attend one of the frequent swap meets. Between attending a swap meet, frequenting their races and talking to drivers, you will soon know what to look for and what to stay away from.

Choose wisely and you will enjoy the sport of karting for years to come!

Article courtesy of National Kart News
For more information call 800-942-0033.
Web: www.nkn.com

END

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